Downtown
Metro Manila has become unbelievably huge and swamped with malls. But however big it has become and how many would claim to be its new center, there remains to be one and only downtown—Quiapo.
I hated tagging along my mom whenever she made her regular trips to Quiapo. It was a crowded, hot, chaotic and filthy place. (Still is.) I could never imagine it as the country’s best shopping destination once, complete with the first airconditioned department stores and cinemas.
But I’ve grown to love Quiapo these past years.
It all started when I was given my first SLR camera by my Uncle Ben. And when one talks of cameras there is only one place to go—Hidalgo street. At first, I went there to have my black and white pictures developed. The best professional film developers are there. And because my first camera was a Petri, Hidalgo was the only place where they could clean and repair it or where I could buy accessories. I even have a buddy-camera technician in Quiapo.
I’ve had a succession of cameras after my first—especially after it got dunked several times on Sinundungan River on a human rights fact-finding mission. I had Yashicas because of two things: they’re cheap and are compatible with Carl Zeiss lenses. While my camera bodies may be crappy, my lenses were top grade. I even influenced Gilbert Mendoza, Erel Cabatbat and Angel Tesorero into becoming Quiapo denizens. Hidalgo was also where I wold buy lots of second hand camera magazines. Ten pesos each!
Then there is Raon. I can no longer remember all the things I bought from there. My wife and I even bought a juicer there once. If I am in need of any electrical appliance, Raon comes to mind first.
When I need eyeglasses, I go to Paterno. I buy new ones there or have my old ones fixed. I used to buy sunglasses on this street behind the Catholic church but the Muslims around the Golden Mosque now sell them for 35 pops a pair. Saan pa ako?
And, of course, Quiapo is the pirated CD (audio CD, VCD, and DVD) capital of the universe. I once brought two Ilonggo barangay chairpersons there to buy karaoke CDs. They were so afraid of the Muslims they hardly spoke and looked at the merchandise. Funny.
Since my sister in law converted to Islamism, Quiapo is also where I would buy her and her family halal meat. Chicken, beef and veal are sold in a Pakistani-owned shop there. For haram eating carnivores, there’s Excellente Ham store near the Quinta Market.
My wife frequents the bead shops on the street connecting Quinta and Plaza Miranda.
Last month, I was introduced to Mojd Halal restaurant. Their rottiserrie chicken is to die for. It’s Mindanaon-Middle Easter fusion. It’s spicy but the lemon grass tang is strong.
Do not expect much from this restaurant on the looks department. It is always teeming with people; it is a hole in the wall. It's got creaky ceiling fans and I dared not use its bathroom. It's located very near the mosque and the DVD shops.
For the second time, I had lunch at Mojd Halal today. I was actually invited to a free lunch at Barbara’s inside The Orchidarium at Rizal Park and I would have loved to park my buns on its antique chairs. But my mind was set on eating at Mojd Halal since morning, I refused.
I ordered a chicken quarter and the Mojd Halal rice—red and spicy. I also ordered a vegetable salad and a soda.
Driving back to Quezon City, my mouth is still assaulted with the richness of flavors. And having had two hefty servings of rice, I felt sleepy.
I think I am becoming like my mother. I now love the crowded, hot, chaotic and dirty downtown. Try visiting it once in a while. I am sure you will find some things to love in Quiapo.









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